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我说:北野武其实很善良,纹身只是一个装饰,带藏刀只是他们的习惯,象我们随身带笔一样,没有什么可怕的,而且刀不是杀朋友的。
对于这样的过程,我很喜欢,很愿意过去感受,因为旅行本身就是一次感受的过程、是一次发现自我和挑战自我的过程。
甘孜县位于四川省康北藏区腹心地带,格萨尔文化旅游区的中心部位。甘孜是川藏线北线的必经之地,但一般很少有人专程去甘孜旅行,虽然甘孜境内有温泉、甘孜寺、汉人寺、奶龙神山、东谷寺等,但都不足以引发不了游人专门为之而行。德格、石渠、白玉等都是康北地区著名的旅游胜地,德格是三大古藏族文化发源地之一、有世界上最大的印经院、也是川藏北线通往西藏必经之地;白玉有神秘莫测的亚青寺、藏传佛教宁玛派六大寺院之一的嘎拖寺、红教宁玛派六大寺之一的白玉寺,甘孜到白玉的路上更是最美的藏区路段之一;石渠号称太阳的部落,有着世界上最大的玛尼堆、夏天的草原据说比内蒙古的还漂亮,但这几个地方都分别在甘孜的辐射线上,从成都走,都得经过甘孜。
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甘孜处于这样的中转枢纽,往来的人群众多,汉化的程度肯定很厉害,但我到了甘孜,看到的和我想象中有点不一样。下午四点多到甘孜,县城的布局和普通的藏区县城没有很大的区别,但街道平直,没有很大的起伏,这在藏区是不多见的,街上的人几乎都是穿着藏服,穿汉服的很少,相对于更深处的白玉和德格,甘孜的藏味更浓,汉化的程度更小,这事我预料不及的。
由于甘孜县城周围没有很高的大山,开阔,冷空气可以自由进入,所以甘孜的温度比更深入藏区的白玉和德格都要低。我到甘孜时时下午四点半左右,有太阳,此时的温度是一天中比较高的时段,但也有零下十多度,还没有试过深冬深入过藏区,来了就想尝试一下冬天的藏区到底有多冷,于是就住一家30元一晚的私人旅社里,没有暖气,但有电热毯。
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趁着还有阳光,放下背包就出去转了。一条小河把甘孜城分开,街道平直、有序,街上的藏民都穿着厚厚的藏袍,两手分开,把长过膝盖的手袖垂下,远看好像四条腿在走路,但藏民走路很多膝盖左右摇晃着走,加上穿得很厚,有点像企鹅。对甘孜县城一点攻略都没做,所以只能凭感觉走,看到远处的雪山,雪山下是很大一群的老房子,我就像受到某种魔力的吸引走进巷子深处。本来以为那是一个很大的藏民住宅区,想走进去好好感受一番,但走不了一会就眼前赫然开阔,前面没有任何障碍物,一条大河横在前面,河的对岸是一片枯黄的树林,树林后面是覆盖着皑皑白雪的矮山,河、树林、矮山呈阶梯型依次出现,而且都在不远处,触手可及。山不是很高,在视野上没有压迫感,这种层次的排列和高度的安排,是视线很舒服的程度,犹如人工调整。
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原来这条河是赫赫有名的雅砻江,在天空的映衬下,河水泛着墨蓝色,河的两边结着雪白、刺眼的厚冰,在西下阳光的照耀下,融化成薄冰的半透明冰块随着河水飘流。墨蓝色的河水在一片白色的世界显得格外通透、漂亮,这片冰雪世界也因为这条墨蓝色的河显得更加纯洁,加上一小片的黄色树林的点缀,简直是一个童话世界。河上横着一条铺着木板的铁索桥,原始、粗糙,和这童话世界放在一起,有很强的视觉冲击力。
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看到这样的场景,双眼情不自禁的湿润起来,静静站着发呆,好一阵才回过神来。这样的美丽,在夏天是看不到的。有人问我,天寒地冻为什么到这样的地方来,其实天寒地冻也有天寒地冻的美。
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置身于童话世界的人很自然的想起公主来,但见远处走来几个穿着藏袍藏族大妈,就不敢想公主了,算了,还是看风景吧!一个人旅行的好处就是可以更随心所欲、为所欲为,坏处就是遇到这样的美景不知道怎么好,一时不能自己,找不到分享的人,有点抓狂,就暗暗发誓:以后一定带上女人去旅行。但此刻如果你跟一个藏区大妈说:嘿,这里很美!她会侧目:有什么好看?我天天看。如果你和一个心不在焉、只是会竖起两个手指拍照的人来,也是枉然;如果是和一个跟你一样可以站着发呆、双眼泪朦的女人一起来,那感觉就像你们已经灵肉结合了,比什么山盟海誓还要坚贞一百倍。
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太阳很快下山,没有阳光照耀的地方非常寒冷,特别是在河边,于是便走回城里,虽然太阳下山了,但天还没完全黑,街上还是很热闹,此时烧烤档的生意最好,但烧烤档买得最多的就是烤香肠,我不是很爱吃那玩意,就找吃饭的地方。甘孜城里的很多餐馆都是川菜,而且都是小馆子,最糟糕的是每家餐馆好像都没有客人,只有老板和服务员在烤火,把握不了哪家好吃,好不容易找到一家隐藏在横巷内的川菜馆,但满座了!靠!等!终于吃上了,味道还不错,只是贵了点,价格比成都还贵。
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吃完饭,天黑了,街上渐渐变得寂寥,只有路灯在街道两旁瑟缩着发出微弱的亮光。证明还有电,于是就回那30元的旅馆体验寒冷的生活,没有暖气,房间几乎和外面一样冷,都是零下十几度,床上的电热毯已经残旧得令人非常不放心,不知能否温暖我的身体。果然,电热毯开了一个多小时都不能变暖,只是不冷而已,好在带了电脑和无线上网卡,可以和正在温暖中、“文明世界”里的朋友联系,慢慢的我也忘记了寒冷,那原理就像唱红歌能使人精神抖擞一样。
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睡觉时,那感觉湿润的被子又冷、又硬,于是把本来盖在上面的毛毯换到里面,抖着睡熟了!不知过了多久,觉得床上的电热毯也是冷的,原来不知什么时候停电了,于是起来喝水,发觉昨晚喝剩的水在杯子里结冰了。好家伙,早知道这样,晚上撒尿就不上厕所去了,而是掀开被子的一角撒到地上去,早上起来拿着尿冰扔掉就可以了!
在甘孜还有一件令我很难忘的经历,那是从德格回来后的事。从德格回甘孜时,由于车坏停在马尼干戈,司机要到甘孜找师傅修车,司机叫扎西,是德格人,专跑德格到甘孜的客运,在甘孜没有地方住,就让他住我的房间,反正有两张床。作为回报,他就带我去逛和找吃的,我建议到市场去看看,去每个地方我都会去市场,看看高原冬天的市场是什么样子。市场里的蔬菜、水果大多用毛毯或棉胎盖住保暖,肉类就裸露着,蔬菜的种类很少,肉类以牛肉为主。在市场上我见到黑色的香蕉,这是我第一次见过这个品种,就问档主是什么品种的?为什么是黑色的?她说是香蕉皮给冻伤了变黑的,里面还是好的。
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来到肉档,只见红白蓝上面堆着着几只牛腿和大牛块,没有案板、没有刀,旁边只有一把大斧头和一杆称货物的称。一般去买牛肉的都是一大块一大块买回家,然后吃上一段时间,你挑好哪块、说要多少,档主就把牛肉放在地上的一块木头上,操起大斧头象砍柴一样砍下去,多一点、少一点都不在乎,没有见过因为砍多砍少而红脖子的。扎西见我驻足,就问我敢不敢吃?我说当然敢吃啊!
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“你也敢吃?很多汉人不敢吃的!”
“我们常吃牛肉,汉地也有牛肉卖,只是没有牦牛肉。”我给他扫盲。
“那我们买点吧,很好吃!”他来劲了。
“买回去怎么弄?我们没有地方做啊!”我一脸疑惑。
“不用做的,就这么吃。”
“吃生的?”
“是的,我们藏人都是这么吃的,你不敢了?”
“你敢吃,我也敢吃!”见他那表情和那语气,我就不服气,但说得心里有点发虚。
我们还是就买了两斤多,15元一斤,买了32元。
扎西向熟人借了一把刀子,然后带我去一家面馆,说那里的面是甘孜最好吃的。我们在面馆里吃起生牛肉。扎西真的吃了,把牛肉割成小块放进嘴里,连呼好吃。看他吃得津津有味,我也豁出去了,由于当时当地的室外都是零下几度到零下十几度,肉在外面都是处于急冻状态,割成小块的牛肉放到嘴里就像一块小冰块,咬下去,牙齿是冷的,象吃冰沙,你可以感觉到冰在你齿缝中融化,而感觉不到牛肉的存在,可想牛肉肉质有多嫩!你可以尝到肉的香味,不是平常你吃牛肉时的肉味,而是带着植物芬芳的肉味!很奇怪,我们平时吃熟牛肉时,感觉肉纤维特别发达,要嚼很久才能嚼烂,但这冻牛肉,就是这样的鲜嫩、无渣、甜美。以前在阿坝和云巴吃过新鲜的生牛肉,虽然都是生牛肉,但那是两种不同的感觉,新鲜的生牛肉汁水丰富,口感松软,冻的生牛肉味道更有立体感,而且肉香的回味时间更长。
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扎西说最好吃的不是牛肉的中间部分,而是表面风干了的干肉,说着又割了一块给我,风干的生牛肉同样美味,少了冰在齿缝中融化的感觉,但更有嚼头、更有韧劲,口感更好。看着扎西把骨头都剔得干干净净,甚至把覆盖着骨头上的那块膜都撕下来吞掉,就问他:“骨头里还有骨髓,要不要咬烂吃掉?”
“骨头太硬了,咬不动。”扎西笑着说。
言下之意就是如果牙齿够硬的话,也会把骨头里那鲜红的骨髓吃进肚子里,我想象着他嘴角流着鲜红的骨髓的样子,赶紧把碗中的面扒完。
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在面馆我们吃不完那两斤多的牛肉,就带回酒店吃,我带了普洱茶,我们就把牛肉当做茶点来吃,睡觉前真的吃完了,我大概吃了四两左右,剩下扎西包了。
有朋友问我:这个人长得象北野武、身上有纹身、带着刀,你敢和他一起住?不怕他杀了你?
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我说:北野武其实很善良,纹身只是一个装饰,带藏刀只是他们的习惯,象我们随身带笔一样,没有什么可怕的,而且刀不是杀朋友的。
对于这样的过程,我很喜欢,很愿意过去感受,因为旅行本身就是一次感受的过程、是一次发现自我和挑战自我的过程。
33.
早知道这样,晚上撒尿就不上厕所去了,而是掀开被子的一角撒到地上去,早上起来拿着尿冰扔掉就可以了!
70很幽默啊,让我想起了以前公司同事去北方出差,说起那个地方的厕所是室外的,有人就问了,那撒尿的时候是不是不是水了,成为一条冰。。。
毒药 | 28/01/2010, 17:28
早知道这样,晚上撒尿就不上厕所去了,而是掀开被子的一角撒到地上去,早上起来拿着尿冰扔掉就可以了!
我靠,不谋而合啊,我也拷贝了这段。正想说呢,楼上的。幸会啊!
会不会连小JJ冻住啊?
love27 | 29/01/2010, 19:45
呵呵,我觉得70可以先实践,过以后就这一问题再写一篇
楼上的,你觉得如何:)
在这里还不是最冷的,在翻越雀儿山的时候,真的有那感觉,司机说那是“雀雀山”,那地方真的是冻“雀雀”的!
毒药现在喜欢研究这个了?现在你们还组团来研究了!
有幸看到雅龚江江面结冰的美景,其实多冷都值!
只是为什么西藏人长袍的袖子要做那么长呢?
第7张的确很美,难怪70会想到童话世界,嘿嘿。别说藏区了,北京的冬天,香蕉搁密封的阳台上,也会冻成黑皮,但不影响吃。
island | 01/02/2010, 05:21回复nalisa
“有幸看到雅龚江江面结冰的美景,其实多冷都值!”
我也觉得,现场的美真的很震撼,还有河边外延的冷气,让你感觉到雅龚江纯真与冷艳,如果从经济学角度来说,就是这个都值回程票了!
回复island
呵呵,island 是北京的吗?我在南方真的不知道还有这回事,所以,旅行也是个大学校!
70年代 | 01/02/2010, 05:59
毒药,什么时候写研究论文啊?嘻嘻~~
70兄,可要保重好啊,雀雀冻坏了,后面就看不到你另类精彩的文章了。诸如《一夜尽情》《女人比男人更色》《每个男人都有一颗艳遇的心》等等
TO LOVE27
LOVE27,码字这活我干不了,而且还是这么个主题的
如果你写了,我可以在旁边七个哄,跟着煽风点火,呵呵
回love27
毒药已经是研究生导师了!
“70兄,可要保重好啊,雀雀冻坏了,后面就看不到你另类精彩的文章了。”
你什么意思?那些文章又不是雀雀写的!
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